Cruising into Aberdeen harbour after visiting Lamma Island was a real shock. Dozens of monolithic apartment blocks tower overhead, obscuring much of the sky from up close. I don’t even want to think about how much it costs to live here—the entire area looked like a nearly featureless cultural void. Apart from various floating restaurants it didn’t seem like there was very much to do. Even the one temple I saw had its doors shut to the public even though it was only late afternoon. I caught a bus to the other side of Hong Kong Island as soon as I could.