Sliding Down the Mountainside

Lingxiao Temple 凌霄殿

The ruins of the former Língxiāo Temple 凌霄殿 can be found in the foothills of the Central Mountain Range 中央山脈 in Pǔlǐ 埔里, Nántóu 南投. Likely named after the Chinese trumpet creeper, Campsis grandiflora (中文), it was founded in 1983 by local philanthropist Chen Chou 陳綢, famous across Taiwan for her charity work. The temple is quite remote, more than 10 kilometers down an old forestry road with no other exit, perched on the hillside at an elevation of 1,300 meters (for reference, the Puli Basin 埔里盆地 is around 500 meters above sea level).

Lingxiao Temple was damaged beyond repair in the catastrophic 921 Earthquake that struck central Taiwan 台灣 in 1999. Slope failure caused parts of the temple to slide down the hillside—and what remains more or less intact has settled at a disconcerting angle, rendering the entire complex unfit for human use. Nobody was harmed in the collapse, insofar as I know, and the ruins of the former temple were sealed after the disaster, presumably because the cost of demolition would be prohibitively expensive this far into the mountains.

There were no problems raising money to rebuild the temple—but the parent organization, presumably the Liang Hsien Tang Welfare Foundation 良顯堂社會福利基金會, directed those funds toward other relief efforts in the aftermath of the earthquake. Only in 2007 was the new temple consecrated about 50 meters uphill from the wreckage of the old temple. Nowadays it attracts nature-lovers, mountain bikers, and pilgrims willing to make the long trek up the disaster-prone mountain access road.

I visited the site of the former Lingxiao Temple in the summer of 2017 after hearing rumours of an earthquake-damaged temple in the mountains surrounding Puli. Nobody warned me about how dangerous it would be so I’ll be blunt: this is not a place for casual exploration and I take no responsibility for anyone who might visit. You’d be foolish not to bring proper safety gear or a drone if you go check it out—but again, I do not recommend it. If you’re interested in seeing something similar I strongly suggest visiting Wuchang Temple in nearby Jíjí 集集.

Throughout the summer of 2017 I undertook a series of scooter trips around central and southern Taiwan, eventually visiting Nántóu 南投, Changhua 彰化, Yúnlín 雲林, Tainan 台南, and Kaohsiung 高雄 before returning to Taichung 台中. I had no specific objective apart from visiting more places I had encountered in ongoing research and stopping to check out anything interesting along the way.

  1. Taiwan Summer Road Trip 2017: Taichung to Nantou
  2. Dongping Tobacco Barn 東平菸樓
  3. Kezikeng New Community 柯子坑新社區
  4. Nanyun Gas Station 南雲加油站
  5. Jiuqiong Village Tobacco Barn 九芎村菸樓
  6. Yixin Vocational High School 益新工商職業學校
  7. Postcards From Ershui 二水明信片
  8. Ershui Assembly Hall 二水公會堂
  9. Xizhou Theater 溪州戲院
  10. Xiluo Bridge 西螺大橋
  11. Postcards From Xiluo 西螺明信片
  12. Xiluo Yisheng Theater 西螺一生戲院
  13. Beigang Theater 北港劇場
  14. Liujiao Brick Kiln 六腳磚窯
  15. Shuangxikou Brick Kiln 雙溪口磚窯
  16. Hsin Kang Theater 新港戲院
  17. Dalin Xinxing Theater 大林新興戲院
  18. Lingxiao Temple 凌霄殿

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