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Synapticism

An experiential journal of synchronicity and connection

Shuangxi Donghe Theater 雙溪東和戲院

The main entrance to Donghe Theater is through an alleyway just off the main street.

Dōnghé Theater 東和戲院 is an obscure ruin in the small historic town of Shuangxi in the mountains of eastern Xinbei. Despite its diminutive size and remote location the town has a history going back to the Qing dynasty era. During the mining boom of the early 20th century Shuangxi became prosperous enough to warrant the establishment of an outpost of cinema. When the town’s fortunes declined so did this theater—but nowadays anyone is welcome to wander in and take a look at what remains here at the confluence of Mǔdān Creek 牡丹溪 and the eponymous Shuang River 雙溪.

A closer look at the weathered nameplate. This would have once read 東和戲院, probably from right to left, but no trace of this remains.

I haven’t had an much luck dating the establishment or abandonment of Donghe Theater as there doesn’t seem to be any authoritative information about it online. The only lead I have involves Taiwanese director Lín Fúdì 林福地 (commonly romanized as Fu Di Lin), who, according to several accounts1, briefly managed a cinema in Shuangxi prior to working on his first feature films in the early 1960s. In those days there were reputedly two theaters2 in town: presumably the one featured in this post and another now-demolished theater by the post office. The few records I have found suggest that their names were Shuangxi Theater 雙溪戲院 and (if you’ll permit some license in translating that first character) Upper Shuangxi Theater 頂雙溪戲院, where Lin Fudi allegedly worked. Donghe Theater is almost certainly one of these two—and given that the post office is further upriver I surmise that Donghe Theater is the original Shuangxi Theater. From this we may reason that this building dates back to at least the mid-1950s, though there’s a good chance it might have been constructed near the end of the Japanese colonial era.

The ticket booth is on the right. Everything inside the remains of this old theater was constructed on an unusually small scale.
An abandoned motorbike just inside the old theater. You’ll see this in pretty much any write-up about this place which suggests it has been here for quite some time.
Light switches inside the cramped ticket booth. There was no space to twist around and get a better shot.
A second entrance to the old theater. This one leads out to the street by way of another alleyway.

The old theater has obviously been cleaned up by the district government for tourists to enjoy in recent years. From what I gather this probably coincided with the promotion of Shuangxi as a low-carbon destination for tourists (take the train there, rent a bike or walk when you show up). Several of the Taiwanese blogs I consulted about this theater (for example, here, here, here, and here) seemed to follow this theme. A few of those posts mention an artistic installation in the old theater but I only saw a simple screen setup against one wall. The rest of the theater seemed more overgrown than what can be seen on those other blogs. Nowadays it is a curious mixture of “mosquito cinema” and the sort of place you might bring your relatives to see.

Taking in the full length of the old theater. The front of the building remains but the rest is long gone.

A small installation within the grounds of the old theater provide some background information about the red bricks used in its construction. Known in Chinese as TR磚, this is short for Taiwan Renga 台灣煉瓦, the Japanese colonial era company responsible for producing most of the high-quality bricks in Taiwan3. These iconic bricks can be found in many other historic ruins around the country including Qingyu Hall 慶餘堂 in nearby Keelung. This fact alone is not enough to date this theater to the pre-war period—but it is certainly suggestive of that possibility. If this theater were indeed from the Japanese colonial era it would also explain a change of names.

Two slots for each projector can be seen at the top of the structure. Unless I am mistaken the second hole of each pair is to manually adjust each projector.
Looking up at the second level of the old theater. There’s no easy way up there, particularly not with neighbours watching.
I clambered up a pile of bricks and held my camera aloft to capture this shot of an oddly-shaped window.
The remains of the old theater can be seen from the historic ferry dock and opium den across the river.

For more general information about tourism in Shuangxi I suggest perusing this excellent bicycle blog. Hopefully I will have a few more things to share from my few hours in this sleepy mountain town—but for now, here’s another theater to add to the collection.


  1. This information is sourced from the Historical Dictionary of Taiwan Cinema and corroborated by this Chinese language article about the director. 
  2. Another hypothesis: there were actually three theaters in Shuangxi and Donghe Theater was neither of the two names for the town itself. Given the lack of evidence there’s not much that can be said either way—but the fact that the two theaters this site locates in Shuangxi are not Donghe, perhaps there were actually three. 
  3. Note: Taiwan Renga 台灣煉瓦 is actually Japanese, not Chinese; “Renga” is a romanization of the Japanese word for “brick”. 

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