An Overnight Trip to Keelung via Jinguashi and Jiufen

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Jinguashi from the Ogon Shrine.

Last weekend I enjoyed a couple of days outside of in the northern part of . I went there with friends, ostensibly to show them around and , the town that famously inspired Hayao Miyazaki’s Spirited Away, and ended up staying in for the night on a whim. Having recently purchased a great new phone I bombarded Instagram with numerous pictures and plenty of commentary as the trip progressed. This quick and dirty post is a collection of some of my better smartphone snapshots as well as an experiment in blogging with broader brushstrokes. Perhaps you will get a sense of how I travel: spontaneously, intuitively, and with a keen eye for details.

The Famous Teahouses of Jiufen

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The teahouses of Jiufen in the golden light of late afternoon.

The tiny mountain town of is one of Taiwan’s most iconic attractions. It prospered under Japanese colonial rule but slipped into steep decline after the closure of the nearby gold mine in the 1970s. In 1989 it was featured in A City of Sadness, the first Taiwanese film to openly address 228 Incident, which prompted a modest reversal in fortunes as it became a local tourist destination. The trickle of visitors became a flood in the 2000s with the release of Studio Ghibli’s beloved Spirited Away, an animated film featuring a supernatural town inspired by Jiufen’s unique history and appearance.

A Peanut Brittle and Ice Cream Roll in Jiufen

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Peanut brittle and taro ice cream treat.

Pictured here is one of my favourite Taiwanese snacks, an ice cream and peanut brittle spring roll, commonly known as huāshēng juǎn bīngqílín 花生捲冰淇淋 (literally “peanut roll ice cream”). Apparently it originated in but you can now find these treats served at night markets and street vendors all around . Each roll consists of freshly shaved peanut brittle, two or three scoops of various flavours of ice cream, and a bunch of chopped cilantro in a thin popiah skin 薄餅皮.

Jiufen, City of Sadness

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Jiufen in the mist and the rain.

is one of the most nostalgic of the old towns in . Although I enjoy the hustle and bustle of Jiufen Old Street 九份老街 I like to break away from the endless busloads of tourists and lose myself in the labyrinthine laneways that line the mountainside. The rest of the town usually feels empty and almost lifeless, as if it were frozen in time.