A Pedestrian Bridge Over The River Wall in Yonghe

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Crossing back into the city from the riverside park in Yonghe.

Pictured here is a grungy old pedestrian bridge over the flood wall in . This is immediately across Xindian Creek 新店溪 from the bulk of , where it is more common to see the wall punctuated by regular gates. The sign reads rénxíng lùqiáo 人行陸橋 (pedestrian bridge), jìnzhǐ pānpá 禁止攀爬 (no climbing).

Sanchong Scooter Style

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A tricked-out scooter in a park near the riverside in Sanchong.

I spied this scooter in a public park on the edge of on the first day of 2016. It isn’t unusual to see people personalize their scooters in in crude, folksy ways—but this one stands out for the extent and nature of its customizations. Perhaps someone was sprucing up an elder’s ride to make it more visible on the road? Whatever the reason, the end result is rather amusing.

A funky fish shack in Jinguashi 金瓜石白帶魚米粉湯

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The funky fish shack from the sloping streets below.

is a historic mining town on the far side of from . Unlike Jiufen—which has become insanely popular and rather overdeveloped in recent years—Jinguashi maintains a small town charm that belies an unusual concentration of historic sights, rewarding hikes, and offbeat attractions. One great example is the funky restaurant perched on the hillside to the right of Cyuanji Temple 勸濟堂 (pinyin: Quànjìtáng), easily identified by the huge gold statue of Guān Gōng 關公 perched on the rooftop. The restaurant, as I have learned, is simply named for their signature dish: báidàiyú mǐfěntāng 白帶魚米粉湯, a kind of fish and rice noodle soup.

Jingtong Erkeng Old House 菁桐二坑老屋

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An abandoned home on the outskirts of Jingtong, an old mining town in the mountains of .

Several years ago I went hiking in the mountains north of Jīngtóng 菁桐, an old coal mining town in , and found this abandoned home on the way back down. Technically it is located in Èrkēng 二坑, literally Second Pit, the tiny village that sprawls upslope from the railway station. At that time I was quite new to in and had no idea what to make of it. Under what circumstances did the former resident depart? Why did they leave almost everything behind? These are questions without any answer.

A dinosaur dystopia in New Taipei

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A post-industrial wasteland occupied by garish reptilian statues and murals? Welcome to New Taipei!

What is it with and dinosaurs? There are a whole bunch on the road leading up to Hōnglúsāi Mountain 烘爐塞山 at the south end of the district and more recently I stumbled upon an infestation beneath Huázhōng Bridge 華中橋 after cycling over from . Formally known as the Huazhong Riverside Park 華中河濱公園, the recent addition of so many weird statues and quirky murals featuring primordial reptiles has earned it the name of New Taipei Dinosaur Park 新北市恐龍公園. I won’t spoil the fun by showing more of what else you’ll find there—but if you’re curious you can look up many more articles in Chinese here, here, here, here. Oh, and never mind the construction in the background, that’s just part of the post-industrial charm of !

Explorations of the Pacific Edge

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These photos were taken two years ago after cycling through the Old Caoling Tunnel 舊草嶺隧道 into , . The first set of six photos were all shot along the rugged shoreline of the Láilái Geological Area 萊萊地質區 while the last four were captured at Mǎgǎng 馬崗, a half-abandoned fishing village on Cape San Diego 三貂角 (pinyin: Sāndiāojiǎo), the easternmost tip of . All were captured in . From here the vast Pacific Ocean stretches all the way to Baja California in Mexico.

Changjiang Road Shops 長江路商店

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An abandoned row of shops at the entrance to Banqiao. These were once repair shops, hair salons, variety stores, and so on.

Last week I cycled across the Huájiāng Bridge 華江橋 to to meet a friend for coffee. At the foot of the bridge I couldn’t help but notice the outline of a long-abandoned building of some kind, the sort of place where you’ll find scooter repair shops and other small businesses along any main road in . Not having found anything close to a formal name for the place I have simply named it for the street it is on, Chángjiāng Road 長江路.

A spooky statue in Yonghe

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The strange things you find when exploring abandoned places at night.

Found this spooky statue in an abandoned apartment complex in the heart of the other night. The rest of the building seemed to have been gutted in a fire but one unit was accessible—so I stepped inside to take a peek and satisfy my curiosity. There really wasn’t much of the place, possibly a professor’s home, but this creepy old bust on the ground floor caught my eye. I wonder who this is a depiction of? And was there any reason for him to have been facing the wall?

Sanchong skyline in wintertime

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Sanchong skyline on a murky day in late January.

I went out riding along the riverside bikeway in this afternoon, crossing from my current abode in to the old quarters of by way of Yánpíng Riverside Park 延平河濱公園. Along the way I captured this ordinary image of the skyline across the pallid Tamsui River 淡水河 and beneath the grey skies of midwinter. It is neither beautiful nor outstanding but part of what I do around here is record little slices of everyday life—and the symmetry of the image appeals to me on some level.

This is actually the third such image I’ve posted from the riverside this month; for the others, check out this one across from and this one crossing into .

An Overnight Trip to Keelung via Jinguashi and Jiufen

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Jinguashi from the Ogon Shrine.

Last weekend I enjoyed a couple of days outside of in the northern part of . I went there with friends, ostensibly to show them around and , the town that famously inspired Hayao Miyazaki’s Spirited Away, and ended up staying in for the night on a whim. Having recently purchased a great new phone I bombarded Instagram with numerous pictures and plenty of commentary as the trip progressed. This quick and dirty post is a collection of some of my better smartphone snapshots as well as an experiment in blogging with broader brushstrokes. Perhaps you will get a sense of how I travel: spontaneously, intuitively, and with a keen eye for details.