Postcards from Hanoi

Ba Dinh Square (Quảng Trường Ba Đình), birthplace of modern , and the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum (Lăng Chủ Tịch Hồ Chí Minh).

Gathered here are around forty of my better photographs from a five day stay in , , in November 2016. All of these images were captured while idly wandering around the famous Old Quarter and its environs. I was not particularly adventurous on this trip but I still managed to find plenty to feast my eyes upon—and the food and coffee certainly lived up to expectations! I also found it interesting to apply some of my growing knowledge of East Asian culture gleaned from these years of living in . Each photo is annotated with onward links to more information should anything pique your interest.

Xizhou Telecom Bureau 溪州原電信局

Someone has turned the former Xizhou Telecom Bureau into a nursery.

This week I visited the small town of in southern to locate the eponymous Xizhou Theater 溪州戲院. I found no way into the theater but made a serendipitous discovery while walking around the block in search of another access point. Across the street I noticed the utilitarian outline of the former Xizhou Telecom Bureau 溪州原電信局, a modest building that once housed a combined post office and service counter for the state phone company, then known as the Directorate General of Telecommunica­tions (DGT) 交通部電信總局. The sign above the entrance simply reads Diànxìnjú 電信局, or “telecommunications bureau”, which is all anyone needed to know in those days. Taiwan’s telecom monopoly was broken up in 1996 with the privatization of what became known as Chunghwa Telecom 中華電信. In the absence of any sort of historic information about this obscure abandoned office I’d guess it was built sometime in the late 1970s or early 1980s.

A requiem for Zhongsen Theater 中森戲院

The hulking remains of a vintage 1960s theater on the streets of Taichung.

is changing fast. The historic downtown area, formerly one of the worst examples of inner city blight in the nation, is presently undergoing a massive urban renewal effort. Some decaying and disused commercial buildings have been restored, many more await their fate, and others have been demolished before I’ve even had a chance to document their interiors. Zhōngsēn Theater 中森戲院 belongs to this last category: it came down after I shot a preliminary set of photos but before I had a chance to sneak inside. You have to move fast to capture these small histories in their unmaking.

The ruins of Donghe Theater 東和戲院

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The main entrance to Donghe Theater is through an alleyway just off the main street.

Dōnghé Theater 東和戲院 is an obscure ruin in the small historic town of in the mountains of eastern . Despite its diminutive size and remote location the town has a history going back to the . During the mining boom of the early 20th century Shuangxi became prosperous enough to warrant the establishment of an outpost of cinema. When the town’s fortunes declined so did this theater—but nowadays anyone is welcome to wander in and take a look at what remains here at the confluence of Mǔdān Creek 牡丹溪 and the eponymous Shuang River 雙溪.

A glimpse of Xizhou Theater 溪州戲院

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The entrance to a vintage theater in the sleepy hamlet of Xizhou.

Some people are into urban exploration for the optics—they love visiting the most visually-impressive places and taking cool photos—but I’m more interested in solving puzzles and documenting history. Animated by curiosity, I have become proficient in navigating the language web in search of leads. Not all of these turn out to be something interesting but I enjoy those rare days where I set out into the countryside and see how many sites I can knock off my list.

Yesterday I went for a scooter trip around southern , primarily to give some love to , a vital center of trade and commerce in the late . Seeing as how is just next door I opted to drive over and check out two points on my map, one of which was highly speculative, in that I had recorded no address for it. I only knew there was a vintage theater somewhere on the west side of town—and in short order arrived at the entrance to the humble Xizhou Theater 溪州戲院.

Wuri Police Station 烏日警察官吏派出所

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A sidelong view of the historic Japanese colonial era police station in Wuri.

Wuri Police Station 烏日警察官吏派出所 is a historic building dating back to the early 1930s. Located in , , it was built in a simple, subdued style with more of a nod toward Rationalism than the localized or Baroque Revival styles commonly seen in commercial and institutional of Shōwa period . After the station was decommissioned in the late 1960s it was used for residential purposes until it was ultimately for unknown reasons. Historic status was announced in 2004 and officially confirmed in 2013 but restoration efforts have been stuck in the planning stage since then. This makes the Wuri Police Station yet another example of a neglected heritage building in Taiwan at risk of natural and manmade disaster.

Gateway to the East

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An abandoned installation at the easternmost tip of Taiwan.

Recently I returned to Cape Santiago 三貂角, the easternmost tip of the island of , once again by way of the Old Caoling Tunnel 舊草嶺隧道. The far eastern shoreline is smothered in broken concrete and derelict industrial facilities, the fading legacy of an aquaculture industry in decline. One such facility is this, the most easterly building on the island, a crumbling ruin previously documented in my explorations of the Pacific edge. I suspect it might have been a pump station for there is a network of pipes running through jagged holes in the floor to the ocean sloshing around in the darkness below. This small room is infested with Ligia exotica, a cosmopolitan isopod known to locals as Hǎizhāngláng 海蟑螂, literally “sea cockroach”. This place has changed since I was last here. A chamber on the rooftop has collapsed into a heap of red bricks and twisted metal. Perhaps a close encounter with debris blown in by Typhoon Malakas was responsible—or maybe it’s the accumulation of elemental forces sweeping across this exposed headland. Whatever the case, it is interesting to witness these changes as my time in this land grows far longer than originally expected.

A short ride around western Taoyuan

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A river running through the Taoyuan countryside somewhere on the outskirts of Xinwu.

Last October, while living in Zhongli, I ventured out into the countryside for a random bicycle ride on Halloween. Like most of my rides I didn’t have a route planned or anything, only a general intention of checking out the obscure Fugang Old Street 富岡老街 about 15 kilometers west of the city. Along the way I followed my intuition (with a little help from Google Maps) and captured photographs of anything interesting and unusual I came across. Featured here are more than two dozens pictures from this ride through parts of , , , and in western .

Dinh Dong Thanh 亭東城

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Inside the courtyard at Dinh Dong Thanh. The tree is old but the temple itself is only a few years old.

One of the more interesting temples I stepped inside on a recent visit to the Old Quarter of is the recently renovated Đình Đông Thành 亭東城 (loosely: “East City Pavilion”). Having explored many over the years I was familiar with some of what I found there—but much of it was completely foreign to me. Looking up information after the fact hasn’t been educational; there are no English language resources about this temple and I haven’t got the same knack for finding information in Vietnamese as I have with Chinese language resources about . So, if you’ll pardon my lack of local expertise, I’m going to share a few photos from this obscure temple and attempt to puzzle through some of what caught my eye.

Sad elephant

An elephant slide abandoned in the basement stairwell of a commercial building in Zhubei.

I found this sad elephant while tromping around the commercial building that was once home to Jīnbǎo Grand Theater 金寶大戲院 in . I was not able to evade detection and sneak into the old theater but this discarded playground slide I found in a basement stairwell made the attempt worthwhile.